peru

time travelling Lima

evening street food highlight sweet potato donuts....

evening street food highlight sweet potato donuts....

taking time with Lima - especially as it's going to be the nearest place I can call to home, for a while.

to be more specific, it feels like there's a multi faceted time portal here, accompanied by some kick arse urban planning [well at least in my bubble of the Pacific sided districts and downtown].

Huaca Pucllana: contemporary Lima all but swallows up the clay & adobe stepped pyramid, unbelievably even more in middle of town than Giza pyramid 

Huaca Pucllana: contemporary Lima all but swallows up the clay & adobe stepped pyramid, unbelievably even more in middle of town than Giza pyramid 

parks, playgrounds, bike paths, plazas

the eras that have left indelible marks in Lima and with me

18th & 19th century churches and palaces, especially the sunset azure of iglesia la recoleta

18th & 19th century churches and palaces, especially the sunset azure of iglesia la recoleta

1920's bars and 1930's apartments  

1920's bars and 1930's apartments  

1960's cafes: cafe, chilcanos & limonada  

1960's cafes: cafe, chilcanos & limonada  

back at sea level and well and truly back on my caffeine habit [surprised how easy my self imposed cold turkey of six weeks went, no shakes, no headaches, no convulsions].  Gotta love a bow tied waiter, no?

 

1980-2000 - civil war, incredibly impressed with the commitment to remember through photo and video documentation 

1980-2000 - civil war, incredibly impressed with the commitment to remember through photo and video documentation 

 

and those Pacific sunsets

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jungle to altiplano

The Peruvian jungle was filled with deliciousness, mostly in the form of new to me fruits.

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My favourites all the colours of the Karambola (star fruits).  As always there's one huge exception, Noni looks and tastes like blue cheese.If it had been served to me on a cheese plate I would have loved it, but the incongruity of picking and peeling it, meant to my mind it was supposed to be sweet.

Cacao - Madre De Dios

Cacao - Madre De Dios

Gorgeous birds, flowers and plants.  Ghastly insects, spiders and a gazillion butterflies. And a kick arse lightening storm.  So worth being there in the wet season.

 

Bit too picturesque for piranha fishing  

Bit too picturesque for piranha fishing  

Back up to 3800m and the blueness of Lake Titicaca.  Pretty special, and all the more so for spending time on it in both Peru and Bolivia (lassiez-faire if very slow overland border crossing : can't possibly see why they might have contraband issues).

Perú side of Lake Titicaca

Perú side of Lake Titicaca

  • Floating reed islands - yep
  • Slowest motor powered commissioned boats in the world - yep
  • Bolivia hiked smelling like home, eucalyptus everywhere- yep
  • More blue than imaginable - yep
  • Sunsets not hyped - yep
Uros Islands - floating made from reeds, 3m deep last 35 years

Uros Islands - floating made from reeds, 3m deep last 35 years

Bolivia side of Lake Titicaca

Bolivia side of Lake Titicaca

And back in the land of good graffiti.

Copacabana  

Copacabana  

Hiking and sacrificing

I am so impressed with the Inca's on a whole host of architectury and engineering ingenuity levels, also pretty impresssedwith gold and silver smithing skills and the pattern repetition. Extending to the astronomy / navigation, terraces, tunnels and crazy staircases

 

descending day 2

descending day 2

sunrise day 3

sunrise day 3

Also taken with their approaches to conquering enemies, but my absolute favourite was their super civilised way of human sacrifice, in five easy steps:

  1. Tell you and your family the honour bestowed on you (well technically this is heresay but I like it)
  2. Walk you and your entourage and your precious afterlife goods to the nearest snow capped mountain, days or weeks
  3. Have you drink hallucinogenic flower, position you with blankets into a tidy seated position wait for you to fall asleep
  4. Surround you with next world / appeasing treasures
  5. Wait for the snow to do its thing until you die of hypothermia

Much more civilised that just cutting your heart out.  Right?

 

sunrise & ruins : day 3 

sunrise & ruins : day 3 

The Inca Trail is mesmerising, essentially four days of walking meditation with camping thrown in for good measure.  And an incredible test of lung capacity with passes at 4200m, 3710m to the relative flatlands of Macchu Picchu at 2430m.

 

Macchu Picchu : the detail mark I

Macchu Picchu : the detail mark I

Macchu Picchu : the detail mark II

Macchu Picchu : the detail mark II

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Giants, pharmaceuticals and gymnastics

The south west corner of Peru, is most agreeable.

advertising tag mash up : Arequipa  

advertising tag mash up : Arequipa  

The vast majority are very short, it's taking some adjustment to be at the taller end of the spectrum.

So much that sits well with me.

70's & 80's cars proliferate, most much more beaten up : Tacna

70's & 80's cars proliferate, most much more beaten up : Tacna

Getting up early is normal, running with thetown waking up one of my favourite things - less so the running at altitude thing.

Food, especially the markets hyper organised, fruits seperate to vegetables, aisles labeled and full of deliciousness to explore.  Learnt that iridescent lurid fruit skin usually equates to the most delicious flesh. Beach and street side ceviche.  

Favourite snacks: roasted corn kernels, 100% cacao chocolate, it's almost black and so so bitter.  Totally lost to it.  

And of course the mysteriously named raspadillas - shaved ice layered with juice usually tamarind, strawberry, orange and mango.

Lax attitude to pharmaceuticals.  Bring dodgy looking supplements over the land border.  Sure.  

Unpackaged - but blister packed - over the counter painkillers, well more thru the bars.  Of course.  

Traditional cure for altitude sickness, coco leaves: by the freezer bag.  Everywhere.  Have been asked not to try my luck with those over next border.

not so many street cats : Huacachina  

not so many street cats : Huacachina  

Hiking and landscapes to die for.

day 2 : Canon del Colca  

day 2 : Canon del Colca  

overnight hiking : San Juan de Chuccho

overnight hiking : San Juan de Chuccho

walking out : San Juan de Chuccho

walking out : San Juan de Chuccho

sand dune sunset : Huacachina  

sand dune sunset : Huacachina  

And very much a Peruvian imprint of a posse of little girls playing on my Olympic Rings, joining me on the monkey bars and tumbling.    Whilst their brothers too cool to join in and just looked on. 

sunday arvo beach & ceviche : reserva nacional de paracas  

sunday arvo beach & ceviche : reserva nacional de paracas