Lisbon

what I ate in portugal

the best food country I’ve been in this year, totally fell in love with the restaurants, the food markets, and the street food.

super quick roll call of my favourites.

first up Lisbon:

  • all the smoked things @fumeirodesantacaterina : beef, octopus and the standout eggplant
  • woodfired coffee roasters @A flor de Selva the best €12 on beans ever spent
  • fresh grilled sardines @ Último Porto
  • percebes and steak sandwich for dessert @ Cervajeria O Palácio 
sardines @Último Porto 

sardines @Último Porto 

percebes @  Cervajeria O Palácio

percebes @  Cervajeria O Palácio

Porto - roasted chestnuts good at the time, and on reflection post Xmas markets  🇨🇿 learning they were sublime

Olhão, was there anything other than fish to eat, and beer to drink nope.  grilled seafood nirvana €10 until you can eat no more.  yes please @Vai e Volta

what was my lunch @Vai e Volta

what was my lunch @Vai e Volta

Vila do Bipso - garlicky clams, more sardines and the tiniest local market

Evora - literally 10 steps from the front door to the deliciousness from one of the 9 seats @ Botequim da Mouraria 

Serrano y vino @ botequim de mouraria  

Serrano y vino @ botequim de mouraria  

and everywhere the coffee 

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another city stealing my heart

bizarre end to the bike lane 

bizarre end to the bike lane 

Lisbon has totally captivated me - is it wrong to have a list for what a city needs, I am definitely erring on the not side. 

So the attributes required to make it gritty and liveable I've learnt for me are comprised of four simple things:

Amazing urban spaces and art

street scapes and buildings where too much decoration is never enough.  The 18th and 19thC building tiles have morphed for 21stC into tags, throwups and murals; adornment seems to be in the DNA here.

 

why limit yourself to one lion

why limit yourself to one lion

crazily they get stolen off the walls and sold : who does that? 

crazily they get stolen off the walls and sold : who does that? 

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can't believe I found @utopía.artist again - Valparisio via loads of places to Lisboa  

can't believe I found @utopía.artist again - Valparisio via loads of places to Lisboa  

Killer coffee and food 

since 1950 cork tree wood fired coffee roaster  

since 1950 cork tree wood fired coffee roaster  

where coffee with milk is an abberation

where a steak sandwich is dessert

where a pasteis is breakfast

where you get ripe cheese and aged port at the local store 

when I grow up my bodega will only sell cheese, fruit and port too

when I grow up my bodega will only sell cheese, fruit and port too

where you can eat barnacles

Gooseneck barnacles and an imperial the best second lunch 

Gooseneck barnacles and an imperial the best second lunch 

Close to the water

Pedestrian friendly

and lastly totally walkable ideally with hills and doubling back narrow roads (and yes ok, old school gyms) 

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