Budapest: castles, pinball and deliciousness

once again I totally adored the history, and if you fancy a castle Budapest is totally your city. so blessed to have arrived after the snow, so the benefit of the sparkly gorgeousness but zero of the dealing with the actual fall of it.

museum curation was not a strong suit of the city but for my favourite museum who needs a curation….

Danube meanderings

Danube meanderings

Danube meanderings II

Danube meanderings II

awesome space : house of terror (terror haza)

awesome space : house of terror (terror haza)

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flippermuzeum.hu

flippermuzeum.hu

for anyone who ever said not another boring museum....your antidote the Pinball Museum. Hell yes.

 

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San Juan fiesta = Zona Cafetera

A chance to head out to the Zona Cafetera, Filandia in Quindio.  And aside from being obsessed with partaking in endless cups of coffee, also a great opportunity to meander the streets and enjoy the vibrant architecture.

 

and yes sure, i may be slightly smitten with blue and green

and yes sure, i may be slightly smitten with blue and green

front door envy

front door envy

more of that killer blue and green

more of that killer blue and green

almost makes me want to be admitted to hospital

almost makes me want to be admitted to hospital

and just to prove their are other colours    

and just to prove their are other colours 

 

school (or a hawthorn fan?) 

school (or a hawthorn fan?) 

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the whirlwind of highlights : 7 months based out of england

time in england, meant a superb base for travelling in Europe - and there was a a lot  of that.  time for the next new thing: Ibague, Colombia for 2018.

capturing what I saw and did here is pretty simple: the Thames

 

from the belltower to the start line of the Henley Royal Regatta

from the belltower to the start line of the Henley Royal Regatta

Henley on Thames at its gloaming best

Henley on Thames at its gloaming best

well maybe second best

well maybe second best

boating

boating

winter bike commutes do pay off

winter bike commutes do pay off

countryside walking

 

summer storms

summer storms

dartmoor national park

dartmoor national park

sunday morning are made for snow walking 

sunday morning are made for snow walking 

galleries, museums and public spaces

the ghastly and awesome surgery museum London

the ghastly and awesome surgery museum London

chester catherdral

chester catherdral

cathedral st andrew

cathedral st andrew

leake street

leake street

and the two things I'll miss the most:

Reebok CrossFit Reading

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RCFR has definitely been one of my favourites about living in England - had such a great time training with everyone over the last 6 or so months, was made to feel so incredibly welcome. 

And these amazing Henley gentlemen:

 

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sure there’s the antiquities, but

yes I adored the history, walking in the footsteps of the Romans, being blown away by the opulence of the Medicis but really the surprising highlight of both Roma & Firenze was the street art 

Roma: by @tvboy for Greenpeace 

Roma: by @tvboy for Greenpeace 

Roma: can’t remember the last time I saw this, and complete with tagged insides too

Roma: can’t remember the last time I saw this, and complete with tagged insides too

Roma, as close as I got to faux gladiators 

Roma, as close as I got to faux gladiators 

Firenze the everywhere art of @cletabrham, @exit/enter, @apo_art and plenty more legacy from #fcvfirenze

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and then the last walk before leaving - ironically to the Uffizi  - threw up a few more.... 

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what I ate in portugal

the best food country I’ve been in this year, totally fell in love with the restaurants, the food markets, and the street food.

super quick roll call of my favourites.

first up Lisbon:

  • all the smoked things @fumeirodesantacaterina : beef, octopus and the standout eggplant
  • woodfired coffee roasters @A flor de Selva the best €12 on beans ever spent
  • fresh grilled sardines @ Último Porto
  • percebes and steak sandwich for dessert @ Cervajeria O Palácio 
sardines @Último Porto 

sardines @Último Porto 

percebes @  Cervajeria O Palácio

percebes @  Cervajeria O Palácio

Porto - roasted chestnuts good at the time, and on reflection post Xmas markets  🇨🇿 learning they were sublime

Olhão, was there anything other than fish to eat, and beer to drink nope.  grilled seafood nirvana €10 until you can eat no more.  yes please @Vai e Volta

what was my lunch @Vai e Volta

what was my lunch @Vai e Volta

Vila do Bipso - garlicky clams, more sardines and the tiniest local market

Evora - literally 10 steps from the front door to the deliciousness from one of the 9 seats @ Botequim da Mouraria 

Serrano y vino @ botequim de mouraria  

Serrano y vino @ botequim de mouraria  

and everywhere the coffee 

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throwback to the whirlwind that was Morocco

totally gotten used to a much slower pace of exploring, Morocco was compressed into 19 days and around 3000km

it’s taken some decompressing to distill my favourite memories

all the olives  @meknes medina 

all the olives  @meknes medina 

Casablanca = my first encounter with grand taxis - 1970s pimped up mercedes; proliferance of Art Deco buildings; the ridiculously large Hassan II mosque and an amazing lunch @squala 

Hassan II mosque   http://www.fmh2.ma/

Hassan II mosque  http://www.fmh2.ma/

Rabat = riverfront promenading, could definitely imagine living here 

how all Saturday walks should look @Rabat

how all Saturday walks should look @Rabat

Moulay Idriss = learning the 5 things that make a Moroccan town: mosque, Islamic school, public bakery, public bath and a public fountain.  plus hearing the roar from every house and TV as Morocco qualified for Moscow 2018

Volubilis = mind blown by romans under the blue sky

close to the eastern edge of the Roman Empire  

close to the eastern edge of the Roman Empire  

Meknes = learning about the Sultan who pretty much created the city of Meknes ruled for 55 years - the original infrastructure megalomaniac, on the downside if you were an architect you have a sweet feted life but then you got killed cos you knew too many secrets.  oh and who doesn’t love a stable for 12000 horses

Agdal basin, fed by 25km of aqueducts  

Agdal basin, fed by 25km of aqueducts  

Fes = the first of my many Moroccan hamman trips

royal palace door, Fes

royal palace door, Fes

Chefchaouen = blue and white as a town looks magical; hiking in the Rif Mountains; sunset views from the ridge listening to the reverberating and echoing calls to prayer from multiple villages 

from the Spanish mosque,  looking back onto Chefchaouen 

from the Spanish mosque,  looking back onto Chefchaouen 

Tangier = the Morocco of Tintin books; the perfect mix of contemporary urban planning & crumbling Art Deco; mint tea, peanuts and board games @cafeelhafa 

Hércules cave

Hércules cave

Marrakech = b&w photos 1930-60’s Morocco @maisondelaphotographie; hanging out and dining chaos at Jamaa el Fna square; flat bar road biking 

Jamaa el Fna square  

Jamaa el Fna square  

Aroumd = high atlas mountain hiking and the completely unexpected experience of seeing snow; driving thru the tizi n’tichka pass 

fruit transport  

fruit transport  

Zagora = running in the desert with a street dog for company

Sahara = not all sand; climbing and running down sand dunes; being mesmerised by sunset, stars and sunrise

Sahara sunset

Sahara sunset

Tamegroute = absolute favourite thing being enthralled by the Zawiya Nassiriyba quranic library 4000 or so books - from 14th to 19thC - spanning Koran, Algebra, Astronomy, Biology, Grammar.Stunning calligraphy and penmanship http://enacademic.com/dic.nsf/enwiki/3699140 and  maybe a kitten to fall in love with.

Oulad Berhil = what more is there to say, goats in trees eating argan nuts

Essaouira = where you buy fish at the market and then take it to a restaurant for them to grill; organised refereed fútbol games on the beach; and a beach made for running 

port of Essaouira

port of Essaouira

sunset, port of Essaouira

sunset, port of Essaouira

the winter that wasn’t meant to be

So the original intent wasn’t to do a European winter, almost a month in and the past week has proved to me there are some redeeming aspects. 

Exhibit I: Urban area snow 

Hambleden

Hambleden

getting to lay the first footsteps, Hambleden weir

getting to lay the first footsteps, Hambleden weir

Exhibit II: Public Art on the stark Vitava riverside and surrounds of Prague

David Cerny - babies

David Cerny - babies

David Cerny - hanging man (with bird) 

David Cerny - hanging man (with bird) 

Jaroslav Róna - Kafka

Jaroslav Róna - Kafka

Exhibit III: Prague = barren parks, icy breath and awesome buildings

a city solely of throw-ups

a city solely of throw-ups

National theatre  

National theatre  

Prague Castle complex totally enthralled me...proving nothing can be too over the top

St Vitus Cathedral I

St Vitus Cathedral I

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St Vitus Cathedral II

St Vitus Cathedral III

St Vitus Cathedral III

Old Jewish cemetery   

Old Jewish cemetery

 

another city stealing my heart

bizarre end to the bike lane 

bizarre end to the bike lane 

Lisbon has totally captivated me - is it wrong to have a list for what a city needs, I am definitely erring on the not side. 

So the attributes required to make it gritty and liveable I've learnt for me are comprised of four simple things:

Amazing urban spaces and art

street scapes and buildings where too much decoration is never enough.  The 18th and 19thC building tiles have morphed for 21stC into tags, throwups and murals; adornment seems to be in the DNA here.

 

why limit yourself to one lion

why limit yourself to one lion

crazily they get stolen off the walls and sold : who does that? 

crazily they get stolen off the walls and sold : who does that? 

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can't believe I found @utopía.artist again - Valparisio via loads of places to Lisboa  

can't believe I found @utopía.artist again - Valparisio via loads of places to Lisboa  

Killer coffee and food 

since 1950 cork tree wood fired coffee roaster  

since 1950 cork tree wood fired coffee roaster  

where coffee with milk is an abberation

where a steak sandwich is dessert

where a pasteis is breakfast

where you get ripe cheese and aged port at the local store 

when I grow up my bodega will only sell cheese, fruit and port too

when I grow up my bodega will only sell cheese, fruit and port too

where you can eat barnacles

Gooseneck barnacles and an imperial the best second lunch 

Gooseneck barnacles and an imperial the best second lunch 

Close to the water

Pedestrian friendly

and lastly totally walkable ideally with hills and doubling back narrow roads (and yes ok, old school gyms) 

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never enough of the Atlantic Ocean

a week of day hiking, a lot of sunshine and more than my fair share of the stunning Atlantic Ocean. 

mourne mountains  

mourne mountains  

crossing back and forth  between north of Ireland and south of Ireland in a very arbitrary route, exact locations set mostly by random tips en route

County Down for mountains, ordnance maps, stone walls, game of thrones, mist and sheep, sunsets, seaside strolls 

Tollymore Forest Park

Tollymore Forest Park

mourne wall

mourne wall

sunset I : newry

sunset I : newry

sunset II : bangor

sunset II : bangor

coastal walking : bangor  

coastal walking : bangor  

County Donegal : cliffs, blue & green, wind, pubs

 

malin head  

malin head  

giant's causeway  

giant's causeway  

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ballycastle  

faeries bridge bundoran  

faeries bridge bundoran  

aptly named

road tripping - and car camping, except for the super cold north side wind chill anyone - through Iceland has been the most visually stunning experience.

nothing except being in the car and hiking following our eyes with wheels and feet onto the next gorgeous vista. 

just a typical next bend view

just a typical next bend view

Day 1 : Exploring the Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Road 4 > Road 1 > Road 54 

Braarbaut 

Braarbaut 

right on the edge of the Greenland Sea

right on the edge of the Greenland Sea

Day 2: Exploring the wild Westfjords in splendid isolation

Road 54 > Road 60 > F Road 66 > Road 61

sunrise at Grundarfjörður

sunrise at Grundarfjörður

mark II

mark II

the stunning fjords

the stunning fjords

thermal pool addiction commences at Reykjanesvegur

thermal pool addiction commences at Reykjanesvegur

Day 3: North Iceland and ridiculously only 60km south of the Arctic Circle

Road 61 > Road 68 > Road 1 > Road 85 > Road 87 > Road 1 > Road 860 

Akureyri Harbour  

Akureyri Harbour  

Godafoss  

Godafoss  

Myvatn Lake top of the crater

Myvatn Lake top of the crater

Myvatn Lake, well the lava fields bit

Myvatn Lake, well the lava fields bit

Day 4: Finishing the North and heading down the East

Road 1 > Road 93 > Road 92 > Road 96 > Road 1 > Road 99

Hverir lava fields  

Hverir lava fields  

Eastern Fjords

Eastern Fjords

late afternoon sunshine near Hofn  

late afternoon sunshine near Hofn  

Day 5: East Coast Glaciers and Waterfalls

Road 1 > loads of unnumbered turnoffs > Road 1

Yep.  not a glacier, but who can resist Icelandic Ponies... 

Yep.  not a glacier, but who can resist Icelandic Ponies... 

  Jokulsarlon  glacier lagoon

 Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon

end of the Jokulsarlon galcier lagoon

end of the Jokulsarlon galcier lagoon

hiking the Skafatell national park 

hiking the Skafatell national park 

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Fjardragljufur Canyon  

Fjardragljufur Canyon  

Day 6: South Iceland black sand beaches and waterfalls

Road 1 > Road 215 > Road 218 > Road 1 > Road 30 > Road 35 > Road 37

start of the hike to look over Reynifsarja Beach

start of the hike to look over Reynifsarja Beach

basalt columns Reynifsarja beach

basalt columns Reynifsarja beach

only 468 steps to reach the top of Skogafoss

only 468 steps to reach the top of Skogafoss


Day 7 : South West, Golden Circle, Reykjavik and the Reykjanes Penisula

Road 365 > Road 36 > Road 1 > Road 41 > Road 45 > Road 44 > Road 245 > Road 43

the bloody thirsty and macabre Þingvellir historic site & national park

the bloody thirsty and macabre Þingvellir historic site & national park

mark II

mark II

Reykjavik street art  

Reykjavik street art  

basalt church Hvalsneskirja

basalt church Hvalsneskirja

relics and reclaimed city

So Berlin, totally captivated.

It's the simple stuff super connected public transport, a city brought back to life by immigration, repurposed public space, super cool legacy reclaimed spaces.

been about street art    

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can't remember last time I saw #paintedtrains

can't remember last time I saw #paintedtrains

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sunsets and beer 

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unbelievably awesome linked up public transport, with essentially an honour system ticketing approach plus crazy on the spot fines

beer gardens like you imagine, plus crazy arts/music/outdoor space mashups  

and rhubarb juice @https://www.pratergarten.de/

and rhubarb juice @https://www.pratergarten.de/

and coffee @raw-gelande

and coffee @raw-gelande

and trying to get a handle on the Cold War, I now know I wouldn't cope in a 14 day shelter with 3338 people!  lucky they've all been decommissioned  

Machinations of Stasi, completely worth exploring, gorgeous furniture vs appalling techniques and legacy  

subway station Pankstrasse doubling as a fallout shelter

subway station Pankstrasse doubling as a fallout shelter

H1 Stasi main administrative building, now http://www.stasimuseum.de/

H1 Stasi main administrative building, now http://www.stasimuseum.de/

Prisoner transfer van, disguised as delivery truck 

Prisoner transfer van, disguised as delivery truck 

stained glass

stained glass

Minister's Secretariat phone - complete with instructions about who he would speak to and how his breakfast had to be laid out

Minister's Secretariat phone - complete with instructions about who he would speak to and how his breakfast had to be laid out

NYC in delay

NYC - and to be specific Brooklyn was all about art and walking.

Manhattan storms  

Manhattan storms  

So much beauty in the street art, all the way back to the subway commissions to memorials to pieces.  

words not in the least necessary

 

little Italy @solusstreetart

little Italy @solusstreetart

East Harlem #segoyovbal

East Harlem #segoyovbal

Bushwick

Bushwick

bed-stuy #rockoandzimmer

bed-stuy #rockoandzimmer

Bushwick 

Bushwick 

East Williamsburg FC Crew

East Williamsburg FC Crew

7th Avenue subway  

7th Avenue subway  

back in CDMX

back to one of my favourite cities, CDMX.

proof made it out of the city limits : Avenue of the Dead, Teotihuacan

proof made it out of the city limits : Avenue of the Dead, Teotihuacan

Six pretty simple reasons: 

1.  unbelievably good food wherever you look from the street vendors to the local restaurants to a world top 50

market tostada <$2

market tostada <$2

2.  gorgeous - even if some is a little tired - architecture

 

could that slant have anything to do with abandonment? 

could that slant have anything to do with abandonment? 

3.  old school muscle cars in regular use 

Miguel Hidalgo hood

Miguel Hidalgo hood

4.  informal urban planning from fantastic street art and sculptures

 

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5.  quirky local barrio museos and the world class serious ones too

 

Museo del juguete antiguo México  

Museo del juguete antiguo México  

Museo de la memoria y tolerancia

Museo de la memoria y tolerancia

6.  a wonderful city for walking, moving through each barrio feels like a change with new vibe and feel, always new

rice & beans

Costa Rica has equalled slothing, gorgeous birds, frogs, beaches, outdoorsing and the ubiquitous rice & beans. 

La Fortuna: super sweaty MTB

La Fortuna: super sweaty MTB

perfect sunday afternoon: swimming hole rope swinging @ El Salto rio  

perfect sunday afternoon: swimming hole rope swinging @ El Salto rio  

iconic wildlife - toucans, sloths, quetzals - abundant in the national parks, no doubt assisted by stringent anti-hunting policies and enforcement

Arenal National Park - too busy admiring for any decent wildlife photos

Arenal National Park - too busy admiring for any decent wildlife photos

Cahuita National Park - incredibly brazen capuchin monkeys  

Cahuita National Park - incredibly brazen capuchin monkeys  

Jaguar Rescue Centre Puerto Viejo

Jaguar Rescue Centre Puerto Viejo

Pacific vs Caribbean : tough choice, being dumped by waves and invigorated or warmer not so dumping and turquoise.

Pacific Coast afternoon change : Quepos  

Pacific Coast afternoon change : Quepos  

Caribbean : Cahuita

Caribbean : Cahuita

My three favourite learnings from Costa Rica, first up for yourtown to be considered a town it needs just 5 things:

  • Primary School - gotta learn, literacy >85%
  • A fútbol pitch - gotta stay fit
  • A supermercado - gotta eat
  • A bar - gotta socialise
  • A church - gotta believe, right?

Secondly, you can easily eat rice and beans as the base for breakfast, lunch and dinner.  That is beyond me: 1 meal great, 2 meals doable, 3 meals getting repetitive

 

Lunch version

Lunch version

And where else as an adult do you get to climb such awesome trees this high

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beaches, geeking, cityscapes

nowhere near enough time for Panamá (for reasons beyond me can't get across any border in Central American without an onward ticket super frustrating when you guess awesomeness or lack thereof wrong) sure it's a small country but filled with amazingness

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so limited to exploring just 2 spots - San Blas Islands and Panama City, totally beyond expectations it's an awesome city architectural mishmash of skyscrapers vs 18th Century vs Spanish Mission 

 

sunrise and PTY masquerading as Miami

sunrise and PTY masquerading as Miami

UNESCO Casco Viejo slowly fixing the decay

UNESCO Casco Viejo slowly fixing the decay

very much a food, coffee and street art city

Central Ave Panama City  

Central Ave Panama City  

oh and not forgetting the Panama Canal, no way worth missing  the opportunity to sail through this pretty incredible engineering feat (it was completed in 1914) - ships go thru 24/7 365 days a year...daily gross around $6M

 

inside the miraflores lock

inside the miraflores lock

city hiking resulted in a toucan spot, but no sloths but with views like this close to immaterial

Parqué Natural Metropolitano

Parqué Natural Metropolitano

and the indescribably stunning San Blas Islands, I always though cartoon islands were imagined, but no they absolutely exist

Isla Niadup

Isla Niadup

Isla Sirdichup

Isla Sirdichup

Isla Niadup

Isla Niadup

multiple countries in one (and a lot of 70s/80s)

astonished by how diverse Colombia is: the climate, geography, flora/fauna and cities

it's been like spending time in four different countries

heydey? contemporary cars are plated by city  

heydey? contemporary cars are plated by city  

Bogotá: far, far colder than I care for, kickarse street art, Museo de Oro which is going to pale every future gold museum I go to into insignificance, corner stores doubling as bars

bling to covet - articulated joints &amp; around 40mm2

bling to covet - articulated joints & around 40mm2

Totally in a time warp, made all the more amusing by what appeared to be a 1970's gangsta movie being shot in the main plaza

main plaza Villa de Lleyva

main plaza Villa de Lleyva

Medellín: suddenly warmer, super agreeable spring weather, pockets of green loads of neighborhood parks, one way loop streets and the cleanest metro I have been on worldwide.  Fell in love with the tea salons and the la memoria museum photos and video montages

 

La Memoria : Medellín  

La Memoria : Medellín  

Guatape in the background of what was obviously a drug money summer house

Guatape in the background of what was obviously a drug money summer house

Cartagena: indescribable light, gorgeous colonial buildings, boganvillia, pretending to be a pirate and an inquisition museum with real gallows and guillotine.  Who does that?

 

the cliche sunset Cartagena shot

the cliche sunset Cartagena shot

Pretending to get lost in the jungle, 4 days lost city hiking.  I didn't know there was so much green.

 

tiny portion of all the greens

tiny portion of all the greens

And just off the coast, Caribbean islas with national parks and views to melt for

 

Isla Grande - sunset

Isla Grande - sunset

Isla Grande all the blues

Isla Grande all the blues

Bogotá + rain = finding the street art

wanting to be outside but rain hampering biking meant the day on foot with the streets as my gallery

 

wall of cats : APC www.animalez.org

wall of cats : APC www.animalez.org

@orfanatostudiograffiti

@orfanatostudiograffiti

sublime stencil work : @stinkfishstink

sublime stencil work : @stinkfishstink

mandala : APC www.animalez.org

mandala : APC www.animalez.org

metamorfosis : nepo son corographico apc records

metamorfosis : nepo son corographico apc records

saint hell cat exert : @wardesignco

saint hell cat exert : @wardesignco

Bogotá via Mexico : @Hugo.Huitzi

Bogotá via Mexico : @Hugo.Huitzi

@veraprimavera

@veraprimavera

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1/3 wall : APC www.animalez.org

1/3 wall : APC www.animalez.org

@stinkfishstink APC www.animalez.org

@stinkfishstink APC www.animalez.org

DJLU @JuegoSiempre

DJLU @JuegoSiempre

DJLU @JuegoSiempre

DJLU @JuegoSiempre

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eyes I : @rodez_art

eyes I : @rodez_art

eyes II : @rodez_art

eyes II : @rodez_art

nómada : nomadagraffiti.blogspot.com.co&nbsp;

nómada : nomadagraffiti.blogspot.com.co 

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centre of the world

both hemispheres / w the literal equator line

both hemispheres / w the literal equator line

ended up in Quito for longer than planned - the flood disaster in Perú closing the Pan American both north & south meaning flying here

turned out fortuitous - everywhere you turn is sublime architecture

 

Quito Cathedral

Quito Cathedral

under renovation Teatro Bolívar

under renovation Teatro Bolívar

Basílica del Voto Nacional

Basílica del Voto Nacional

over the top gothic and to add to the bizarreness there at the same time as an Ecuadorean boy band filming.  Bad beyond description 

decay too

decay too

even more than usual taking advantage of public transport, security guards in the strangest places and vibrant murals  

 

as best I could tell - from the bus - guarding a torte vendor... 

as best I could tell - from the bus - guarding a torte vendor... 

when the bus terminates unexpectedly in places unknown, and the down hill walk throws up this gorgeous wall

when the bus terminates unexpectedly in places unknown, and the down hill walk throws up this gorgeous wall

the centre of not just the world but also access to brilliant day hikes: think volcanoes, craters, canyons, gorges

Quilotoa crater hiking and wildflowers

Quilotoa crater hiking and wildflowers

zumbahua canyon &nbsp;

zumbahua canyon  

and the cutest and smallest ice-creams I have ever seen, more or less 2 teaspoons  

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for good measure one last archiporn  

temporary home : old town

temporary home : old town

time travelling Lima

evening street food highlight sweet potato donuts....

evening street food highlight sweet potato donuts....

taking time with Lima - especially as it's going to be the nearest place I can call to home, for a while.

to be more specific, it feels like there's a multi faceted time portal here, accompanied by some kick arse urban planning [well at least in my bubble of the Pacific sided districts and downtown].

Huaca Pucllana: contemporary Lima all but swallows up the clay &amp; adobe stepped pyramid, unbelievably even more in middle of town than Giza pyramid&nbsp;

Huaca Pucllana: contemporary Lima all but swallows up the clay & adobe stepped pyramid, unbelievably even more in middle of town than Giza pyramid 

parks, playgrounds, bike paths, plazas

the eras that have left indelible marks in Lima and with me

18th &amp; 19th century churches and palaces, especially the sunset azure of iglesia la recoleta

18th & 19th century churches and palaces, especially the sunset azure of iglesia la recoleta

1920's bars and 1930's apartments  

1920's bars and 1930's apartments  

1960's cafes: cafe, chilcanos &amp; limonada  

1960's cafes: cafe, chilcanos & limonada  

back at sea level and well and truly back on my caffeine habit [surprised how easy my self imposed cold turkey of six weeks went, no shakes, no headaches, no convulsions].  Gotta love a bow tied waiter, no?

 

1980-2000 - civil war, incredibly impressed with the commitment to remember through photo and video documentation&nbsp;

1980-2000 - civil war, incredibly impressed with the commitment to remember through photo and video documentation 

 

and those Pacific sunsets

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